Since loaves of bread differ greatly in size, this recipe does not specify the number of slices needed; ultimately, you will need one cup of soaked and squeezed bread to make the pate.

Trim the crusts from several slices of French bread or other good-quality white bread. Soak the slices in water and squeeze dry. Lightly pack the soaked bread into a measuring cup. You will need one cup in all.

Put the soaked bread and tarama into a blender or food processor and blend at medium speed until smooth. Without stopping, add the onion or garlic, then the lemon juice; then pour in the olive oil in a thin stream until the mixture is pale pink and the texture of mayonnaise. Turn the taramasalata into a serving dish, cover tightly, and refrigerate for at least an hour before serving.